3 Days on the Amalfi Coast (As Told by an Insider)

The Amalfi Coast is iconic. With gorgeous beaches, turquoise waters, and colorful mountainside towns, it makes for a dream vacation.

Even if you only have three days to enjoy the west coast of Italy, you can still see a lot.

How do I know? I love Italy so much that I moved here last year! Yep, I shipped 11 boxes, three suitcases, and two cats and made Italy my home. Now I enjoy traveling around to explore what this amazing country has to offer.

 I recently made this exact trip to the Amalfi Coast, so here are my recommendations for your trip.

Day 1: Positano

While Positano’s population is only around 4,000, that number swells during summer. Still, it’s a great home base as you explore nearby towns and sights along the Amalfi Coast.

There are many hotels and B & Bs here, but don’t expect chain hotels. You’ll only find those in the metropolises of Italy. I actually prefer these mom-and-pop hotels because the owners always treat you like family and ensure you have the best time on your trip. They can often make fantastic recommendations for restaurants and attractions.

Once you arrive, put your walking shoes on and start descending (or ascending, depending on where your B&B is located) the many, many stairs to explore the town. Just a side note: knowing I was going to the Land of Many Stairs, I got in shape beforehand, running up and down my stairs several times a week! This worked to keep me a little less out of breath each day on my trip!

Stop by the kiosk for the Villa Romana Positano across from the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta (the big church in the center of town; you can’t miss it) and get your timed ticket for an English tour of the excavated remains of a Roman villa from 79 A.D. It’s fascinating to see how far down the villa’s ruins were found after being buried in layers and layers of volcanic ash from the eruption of Mount Vesuvius. The tour will take about 45 minutes.

After the tour, have lunch at the Hotel Covo dei Saraceni, perfectly positioned right by the beach, where you can people-watch and enjoy seeing the boats come into Positano. The staff, who speak English, will treat you like royalty, and the food is first-class.  

P.S. Most everyone on the Amalfi Coast speaks English, but it never hurts to have a grazie (thank you) up your sleeve.

After that, meander around and check out the many shops with linens and ceramics. Many stores will ship larger purchases home, so you don’t have to worry about fitting those large ceramic bowls into your suitcase!

You might head back to your accommodations for a nap. But know that while shops and businesses shut down midday in much of Italy, most stay open in Positano to accommodate the tourists.

End the day with a sunset aperitivo looking out at the sea. You can opt for the traditional neon orange spritz Aperol, though I recommend trying a local classic, the limoncello spritz!

And should you ever wish to extend your time in Positano, I highly recommend the yoga retreat at Villa San Giacomo. You’ll be pampered by a personal chef and concierge, with luxurious accommodations and views to die for. However, in the peak season, it is only available to book in its entirety for a large party, such as a wedding or anniversary party. If you have 10 friends, book it!

Day 2: Valle delle Ferriere and Amalfi

Today it’s time for a little physical activity (what, those stairs weren’t enough?). You’ll be hiking the Valle delle Ferriere, a nature reserve filled with greenery and waterfalls.

Before you leave, head to the nearest bar (a bar in Italy does serve alcohol in the evenings, but they also serve coffee and breakfast) and order a cornetto and cappuccino to fortify yourself for the day. You can get your cornetto (croissant) plain or filled with cream, Nutella, or pistachio cream. There are also other types of sweet delicacies to tempt you, so mix it up each morning!

Then, back to the Valle delle Ferriere, which will take about an hour and a half to reach by car (more if there’s traffic) from Positano. The five-mile loop will take a couple of hours, depending on how many times you stop to snap pics. The trail is moderately challenging, and there are, of course, stairs. You’ll also wander through the ruins of ancient paper mills, which at one time, Amalfi was famous for.

After your hike, head into the town of Amalfi for lunch just about anywhere. A cafe across from the Duomo di Amalfi is great for people-watching.

If you’re up for more shopping, there’s lots to be had here. Don’t miss the stationery shop, la Scuderia del Duca, which offers fine handcrafted paper, sketchbooks, cards, and gifts, carrying on the tradition of Amalfi being known for paper-making.

If there’s time and you’re not too tired, take a tour of the lemon groves at the Lemon Experience. You’ll learn all about this key product and how local restaurants use it, and you’ll get to sample the best lemon cake I have ever had!

Day 3: Ravello

While Positano and Amalfi can be overwhelmingly crowded during peak seasons, the hilltop town of Ravello tends to be a bit quieter. Ravello is about an hour from Positano by car. You’ll have to fight over who gets to be a passenger because the views along the way are spectacular, yet the driver will have to focus on those hairpin curves!

Ravello has got a sweet little piazza and church, the duomo di Ravello, that’s worth visiting to see its unique mosaic art. Pro tip: if you’re hot and sweaty from walking around, a church is always an excellent place to cool off and have a moment of tranquility, no matter what your spiritual leanings are.

Don’t miss a trip to the gardens of the Villa Cimbrone, which has roots dating back to the 11th century. An Englishman renovated the gardens in the 20th century, creating gorgeous nooks with statues, flowers, and shade that will entice you to stay a while and soak it all in.

You’ll be drawn to the Terrazza dell’Infinito, the Terrace of Infinity, where you will have endless views of the Tyrrhenian Sea framed by ancient Roman busts.

Once you’re hungry, you have many options. If you’re up for a bit of a raucous experience with authentic food, the always-full Cumpa’ Cosimo may require reservations. Otherwise, there are plenty of smaller eateries, depending on your mood.

Once you’re done with Ravello, head back to your accommodations and enjoy a nice, long nap!

Tips for Getting Around the Amalfi Coast

Visiting the Amalfi Coast is an experience like no other, but there are some things you need to know in advance.

Nothing is close or quick here, so plan ahead. You can certainly rent a car, though for many Americans, driving on hairpin curves with traffic in either direction on narrow streets is anything but relaxing. You can hire a private car to take you around. Sometimes if you book a tour, it will include transportation.

During the high season, there are ferries that will take you between most coastal cities, and these are often the fastest ways to get around.

Speaking of high season, the Amalfi Coast will be jam-packed with tourists from June through September, not to mention hot. The best time to visit, in my mind, is April or May, or September or October. Certainly, you can visit in the winter but know that many businesses may shutter as they take respite from the busy summer season.

People here are friendly, and as I said, most speak English. Still, they appreciate it when you make an effort to know a word or two, and you just might make a new friend if you say buongiorno! Don’t be shy about asking for recommendations or being curious; Italians love nothing more than giving advice and telling stories. Some of my best travel memories are around conversations I’ve had with Italians!

I hope these recommendations make your trip to the Amalfi Coast as spectacular as mine was! 

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