Shoe Repair Industry Terminology

Aglet

The small metal or plastic tip at the end of a shoelace that prevents fraying and makes lacing easier.

- Replace missing aglets on hiking boot laces - Crimp a metal aglet onto a frayed lace tip - Install heat-shrink plastic aglets on sneaker laces

Average Order Value (AOV)

A revenue metric showing the average amount spent per transaction (total revenue divided by number of orders). Used to guide pricing, bundling, and upsell strategy.

- Calculate AOV: $25,000 revenue / 400 orders = $62.50 - Increase AOV by bundling heel repair with conditioning - Track AOV weekly in the POS dashboard

Awl

A pointed tool used to pierce and mark leather, create pilot holes, and guide stitches for hand-sewn repairs.

- Mark stitch locations on leather with a scratch awl - Pierce pilot holes for hand-stitching a patch - Open a clogged welt channel using an awl

Blake stitch

A sole construction where a single stitch runs through the outsole, insole, and upper from the inside. It’s flexible and streamlined but needs specialized resoling.

- Resole Blake-stitched loafers with an inside stitcher - Explain reduced water resistance compared to Goodyear welt - Add a protective half-sole to a Blake-stitched shoe

Burnishing

Polishing and sealing leather edges or uppers by friction, wax, and heat to smooth fibers and enhance shine.

- Edge-burnish belt or sole edges with wax and heat - Create an antique toe burnish on dress shoes - Smooth and seal wallet edges with gum trag and canvas

Cement construction

A construction method where the outsole is bonded to the upper with adhesive rather than stitched. Common in athletic shoes and many fashion sneakers.

- Rebond a delaminated sneaker sole using contact cement - Heat-activate cement and press on a sole press - Explain why some cemented shoes cannot be stitched

Cost of Goods Sold (COGS)

The direct costs of producing a repair or product, including materials and direct labor, excluding overhead. Used to price jobs and manage margins.

- Include leather, toplifts, thread, and direct labor in COGS - Compute COGS for a resole: $28 materials + $35 labor - Exclude rent, utilities, and marketing from COGS

Counter (heel counter)

The supportive structure in the heel area that stabilizes and retains the back-of-foot shape; can be reinforced or replaced when broken.

- Rebuild a collapsed heel counter with a thermoplastic insert - Heat-mold the counter to reduce heel slippage - Replace a cracked counter board in work boots

Deglazer

A solvent that removes factory finishes, waxes, and oils from leather so dye, paint, or adhesive can bond properly.

- Strip factory finish before dyeing leather boots - Remove wax build-up prior to repainting sneakers - Prep bonding surfaces before cementing a patch

Edge dressing

A pigmented finish applied to sole and heel edges to restore color, uniformity, and protection after trimming or sanding.

- Recolor scuffed heel edges after sanding - Apply black edge dressing to leather soles - Mask uppers before dressing edges for clean lines

Estimate

A preliminary price and time assessment for a repair based on initial assessment; subject to change after detailed inspection.

- Provide a phone estimate for heel repair with 2–3 day ETA - Revise the estimate after teardown reveals shank damage - Email a written estimate with line items and terms

EVA foam

Ethylene-vinyl acetate foam used primarily in midsoles for cushioning and shock absorption; lightweight and heat-formable.

- Heat-form an EVA midsole wedge for alignment - Replace crumbled EVA in a running shoe midsole - Add an EVA heel cushion to reduce impact

Goodyear welt

A construction where the upper and insole are stitched to a welt, and the outsole is stitched to the welt. Durable, water-resistant, and easily resoled.

- Resole by stitching a new outsole to the welt - Replace a damaged welt section before stitching - Fit a storm welt variant for added water resistance

Heel liner

A thin patch or lining inside the heel cup that reduces slippage and covers wear; often suede or microfibre.

- Install a suede heel liner to stop slippage - Patch a worn heel lining on pumps - Color-match a microfiber heel liner to the interior

Heel stack

The layered build-up of the heel, typically leather or rubber lifts, onto which the toplift is attached.

- Rebuild a leather heel stack with new lifts - Level an uneven heel stack before attaching the toplift - Dye and finish the heel stack edges to match

Insole

The internal structural layer of the shoe that sits above the midsole and below the foot; forms part of the lasting margin and overall rigidity.

- Replace a cracked insole board during rebuild - Recement a lifted insole at the lasting margin - Add a thin board underlay to increase rigidity

Inventory turnover

A metric showing how often inventory is sold and replaced over a period (COGS divided by average inventory). Indicates stock efficiency and cash flow health.

- Calculate turnover: $120k COGS / $20k avg inventory = 6x - Improve turnover by discontinuing slow SKUs - Track turnover monthly to manage cash flow

Jack (shoe repair stand)

A heavy, anvil-like stand for supporting shoes and boots during hammering, trimming, nailing, and edge work.

- Mount a shoe on the jack horn for heel trimming - Hammer edges and set nails against the jack - Support a boot while sanding and edge finishing

KPI (Key Performance Indicator)

Quantifiable measures used to evaluate operational performance, such as turnaround time, redo rate, AOV, and customer retention.

- Track redo rate under 2% - Measure average turnaround time in days - Monitor customer retention and repeat rate

Last

A 3D form that shapes the shoe during manufacturing; its dimensions greatly influence fit and silhouette.

- Select a wider last to accommodate forefoot width - Mount a shoe on the last during patch and shaping - Use a custom last for bespoke boots

Lasting pliers

Special pliers with teeth and a hammering face used to pull and secure leather over the last during lasting and patch work.

- Pull the upper tight over the last at the toe - Grip and tack leather while nailing the lasting margin - Flatten staples using the hammer face on the pliers

Lead time

The time from ordering materials or starting a job to its completion. Includes supplier delays and internal queue time.

- Quote 7 days lead time for Vibram sheet delivery - Extend job lead time during holiday peak periods - List lead times on the work order for transparency

Markup

The percentage or amount added to cost to determine the selling price. Markup = (Price − Cost) / Cost.

- Set price: cost $40 with 50% markup → $60 price - Apply higher markup to specialty repairs - Use markup targets to achieve desired gross margin

Metatarsal pad

A small pad positioned behind the ball of the foot to redistribute pressure and improve comfort in the forefoot.

- Place the pad just behind the ball to offload pressure - Adhere a teardrop met pad under the insole - Fit met pads to help with Morton’s neuroma discomfort

Midsole

The layer between the insole and outsole that provides structure and cushioning; materials include leather, EVA, and PU.

- Replace a crumbling PU midsole on hikers - Add a leather midsole for stiffness and longevity - Bevel and rough the midsole before cementing the outsole

Mink oil

A leather conditioner and waterproofer that softens and protects but can darken leather and soften stitches if overused.

- Soften and waterproof work boots before winter - Advise that mink oil will darken light leathers - Avoid overuse to prevent softening stitches

Neatsfoot oil

A traditional leather oil derived from cattle; restores oils to dried leather but can darken and potentially affect stitching.

- Restore oils in a dried leather saddle or boot - Test on a hidden area due to darkening risk - Use sparingly to avoid affecting stitching and adhesives

Orthotic

A corrective or supportive insole, custom or prefabricated, used to adjust biomechanics and improve comfort.

- Fit a customer with a prefabricated arch-support orthotic - Accommodate a custom orthotic by removing volume insole - Add a met pad to an orthotic for forefoot relief

Outsole

The bottom-most layer that contacts the ground. Materials include leather, rubber, TPU, and specialty compounds.

- Replace worn soles with Vibram 430 mini-lug - Install a rubber half-sole over leather for grip - Trim and finish the outsole edge after stitching

Patina

The depth of color and character developed on leather through wear, care, and finishing techniques.

- Build patina with cream polishes over time - Hand-dye and burnish toe caps for depth - Highlight wear points to enhance character

Pegging

Securing the outsole to the insole or midsole with wooden pegs, often in the waist, for traditional durability and water resistance.

- Peg the waist with birch pegs after resoling - Replace missing wooden pegs in a heritage boot - Mark peg spacing with a pegging wheel

Point of Sale (POS)

Hardware/software used to bill customers, manage tickets, and track inventory and sales analytics.

- Process payments and print claim tickets - Track inventory and parts usage by SKU - Run AOV and category sales reports

Rand

A narrow strip that fills the space between upper and outsole or welt edge, protecting the seam and refining the perimeter.

- Install a rand to fill the gap between upper and sole - Replace a damaged rand on hiking boots - Sand and ink the rand for a clean perimeter

Resoling

Replacing worn outsoles (and often midsoles/toplifts) with new ones; methods vary by construction (Blake, Goodyear, cement).

- Resole Goodyear-welted boots with a new Vibram sole - Convert a leather sole to a commando half-sole - Include midsole and toplift replacement as needed

Saddle soap

A mild leather cleaner that removes dirt and some oils; used before conditioning to prepare the surface.

- Clean surface dirt before conditioning leather - Work up a light lather with water and a brush - Rinse and dry carefully to avoid residue

Shank

A rigid support piece in the midfoot (steel, fiberglass, leather) that provides stability and shape.

- Replace a broken steel shank in a dress shoe - Install a leather or fiberglass shank for support - Check shank alignment during a full rebuild

Shoe tree

A shaped insert (often cedar) placed in shoes when not worn to maintain shape, reduce creasing, and absorb moisture.

- Insert cedar shoe trees after wear to absorb moisture - Maintain shape while shoes dry between wears - Select the correct size to avoid over-stretching

Skiving

Thinning leather edges with a knife or skiving tool to create smooth overlaps and reduce bulk.

- Skive patch edges to make a flush repair - Thin a toe puff overlap for smooth lasting - Use a bell skiver to feather lining edges

Storm welt

A welt with a raised flange that overlaps the upper, improving water resistance and robustness.

- Specify a storm welt on field or rain boots - Preserve the raised flange during a resole - Explain water resistance benefits to customers

Taps (toe/heel plates)

Small metal or rubber plates attached to the toe or heel to reduce wear and extend outsole life.

- Install metal toe plates on leather soles - Replace worn heel taps to prevent uneven wear - Use rubber toe taps for quieter protection

Toe box

The front portion of the shoe that houses the toes; structure depends on the toe puff and upper materials.

- Stretch the toe box to relieve pressure points - Rebuild a collapsed toe puff for structure - Touch up scuffs on the toe box after repair

Toplift

The bottom layer of the heel that contacts the ground; a common wear part replaced during heel repairs.

- Replace worn toplifts on stacked heels - Fit Vibram toplifts for better traction - Align, glue, and nail the toplift, then sand flush

Turnaround Time (TAT)

The expected time from job check-in to completion; managed via scheduling, parts availability, and workload.

- Quote TAT of 5–7 business days on standard jobs - Offer rush service with an expedite fee - Adjust TAT when parts are on backorder

Upper

All parts of the shoe above the sole, including vamp, quarters, tongue, and collar.

- Patch a tear in the leather upper and color-match - Clean, condition, and polish the upper - Replace missing eyelets or hooks in the upper

Vibram sole

A branded family of durable rubber outsole compounds widely used in resoles for traction and longevity.

- Resole with Vibram 2060 EVA wedge for comfort - Choose Vibram Montagna for heavy-duty hikers - Use Vibram XS City for dress shoes and grip

Warranty

A stated period and conditions under which repair work will be redone at no charge if craftsmanship fails.

- Offer a 90-day craftsmanship warranty on repairs - Redo a lifted sole if it fails within the warranty - Exclude normal wear and water damage from coverage

Waterproofer

Sprays, creams, or waxes applied to uppers to repel water and stains; chemistry varies by material (suede, nubuck, smooth leather).

- Apply fluoropolymer spray to protect suede and nubuck - Reapply waterproofer after cleaning the uppers - Use wax-based waterproofer on full-grain leather

Welt

A leather (or synthetic) strip stitched around the shoe perimeter that connects the upper/insole assembly to the outsole.

- Stitch on a new welt where the original is damaged - Re-dye and dress the welt edge after resoling - Clean debris from the welt ridge before stitching

Work order

An internal ticket detailing the customer’s request, materials, steps, pricing, and due date for each job.

- Create a work order with materials, steps, and due date - Attach intake photos and notes to the work order - Scan the ticket to update job status in the shop

Zipper replacement

Removing a failed zipper from boots or bags and installing a new one (coil, molded plastic, or metal), often with color and size matching.

- Replace a broken metal zipper on boots with YKK size 8 - Color-match zipper tape and teeth to the upper - Align and topstitch to ensure smooth operation