Tailors, Tailoring Industry Terminology

- Let’s shorten the sleeves by 1.5 cm and add working buttonholes. - We can let out the seat 2 cm using the inlays. - After the first wear, he came back for a waist suppression alteration.

- The armscye is too low, restricting movement. - We’ll reduce the armscye circumference to clean up the armhole. - A higher, closer armscye gives better sleeve mobility.

- Baste the canvas to the forepart before pad stitching. - Use contrast thread so the basting is easy to remove. - We’ll baste the sleeves for the fitting and set them permanently later.

- Your basted fitting is next week; we’ll assess balance and posture. - At the basted stage, we can still move darts and change the lapel shape. - After the basted fitting, we’ll proceed to a forward fitting.

- This is a true bespoke commission with a unique pattern and three fittings. - Bespoke allows us to accommodate your asymmetric shoulders. - We don’t use fusing in our bespoke jackets; they’re fully canvassed.

- We’ll draft your suit from our house block and then personalize it. - The womenswear block has different balance and dart placement. - Update the block after collecting new client measurements.

- He prefers a slight break with a 4 cm hem. - No break keeps the silhouette clean with loafers. - Full break works for heavier flannels and boots.

- We’ll digitize the pattern and refine it in CAD. - CAD speeds up marker making and grading. - Export the CAD file to the cutter.

- This jacket is full canvas with hand pad stitching. - Half canvas saves cost while keeping lapel roll natural. - Fused fronts can feel stiffer and may delaminate over time.

- We supply cloth; the workshop provides CMT. - Our CMT rate includes trimmings but not lining. - Lead times vary by CMT capacity.

- The back crotch curve needs more scoop to remove drag lines. - We’ll extend the front rise and deepen the crotch curve. - His athletic seat requires a longer back crotch.

- Add a waist dart to remove excess at the back. - We rotated the bust dart into the side seam on this jacket. - The dart intake is 2 cm on each side.

- The cloth has a soft drape, ideal for a fuller cut. - We’ll adjust balance to improve the drape over your chest. - That silhouette favors a draped shoulder line.

- Add 6 cm of chest ease for comfort. - Sleeve cap ease must be distributed evenly. - Wearing ease differs from design ease.

- Edge stitch the lapels at 1/8 inch for a crisp finish. - The collar edge stitching must be even around the curves. - Edge stitching enhances durability on the pocket mouth.

- The front facing is cut from self fabric. - Apply stay tape to the facing to prevent stretching. - We’ll understitch the facing for a clean roll.

- In the first fitting, we focus on posture and balance. - The forward fitting confirms sleeve pitch and collar. - Final fitting is for small tweaks and delivery.

- Fuse the waistband with medium-weight interfacing. - Poor fusing can cause bubbling after cleaning. - We use woven fusibles for shirt collars.

- The gorge is set higher for a modern look. - Adjust the gorge angle to suit his neck posture. - Peak lapels with a lower gorge read more classic.

- Align the forepart on straight grain to avoid twisting. - Cut the under collar on the bias for better roll. - Plaids demand meticulous grain matching.

- We’ll blind hem the trousers at a 4 cm turn-up. - Use a hem guard on heavier wool to reduce wear. - Skirt hems need extra fullness for movement.

- The chest piece uses horsehair canvas for structure. - We blend horsehair with wool for a softer hand. - Store canvas flat to prevent distortion.

- Leave 2 cm inlays on side seams for future alterations. - The client is athletic; add inlays at the seat. - We keep generous inlays on bespoke trousers.

- Use a soft weft-insertion interfacing for the fronts. - The collar stand needs a firmer interfacing. - Choose sew-in for a more natural roll.

- Dinner jackets use jetted pockets for a clean look. - Keep the jets slim and perfectly parallel. - We’ll add hidden stitching to strengthen the mouth.

- The jigger button secures the inside of the double-breasted front. - We’ll set the jigger to reduce gaping when seated. - Replace the jigger button with a sturdier horn.

- The keyhole buttonhole accommodates thicker buttons. - Machine keyholes are bar-tacked for strength. - Compare the keyhole to a hand-sewn Milanese.

- He chose a 9 cm notch lapel with a soft roll. - Peak lapels with higher gorges look sharper. - Shawl lapels are typical on dinner jackets.

- Our lead time is 6–8 weeks from measurement to delivery. - Lead time depends on cloth availability and CMT capacity. - Trunk show orders have longer lead times.

- Choose a breathable Bemberg lining. - A half-lined jacket is cooler for summer. - We’ll bag the lining and hand-fell at the hem.

- MTM adapts a base pattern to your measurements. - MTM offers fewer fittings than bespoke. - This MTM program allows custom lapel widths.

- Optimize the marker to hit 85% yield. - Plaids reduce marker efficiency due to matching. - Send the marker to the cutter for lay-up.

- Update his profile with new shoulder slope. - The CRM stores each client’s measurement profile. - Use the profile to pre-baste before fittings.

- Cut all pieces with nap down for consistent color. - Velvet demands strict nap alignment. - Flannel shows shade change against the nap.

- We’re short on notions: order horn buttons and silk thread. - Notions include zips, tapes, shoulder pads, and buckles. - Build the cost sheet including cloth and notions.

- OTR suits can be refined with good alterations. - He bought OTR but asked for a collar roll adjustment. - OTR sizing varies by brand’s block.

- Overlock the seam allowances to prevent fraying. - Use a 3-thread overlock for lightweight linings. - Trousers seams get a 4-thread for durability.

- Pad stitch the lapel to build roll and memory. - The collar pad stitching shapes it to the neck. - Keep stitches small and consistent through canvas and cloth.

- Match the checks across the side seams and pockets. - The sleeve heads must align with the front plaids. - Allow extra cloth for pattern matching on stripes.

- Shape the lapel roll with steam and a clapper. - Use a tailor’s ham to press curved seams. - Press, don’t iron flat, or you’ll kill the cloth’s life.

- Quarter-lined jackets breathe better in summer. - Finish the seams neatly since they’re exposed. - We’ll use binding on the unlined seams.

- A higher rise balances his long torso. - The back rise needs more length to eliminate smile lines. - Low-rise trousers can pull at the crotch.

- RTW lines complement our bespoke offering. - RTW fits off the peg; alterations refine the fit. - RTW size 40 in one brand may fit like 38 in another.

- Leave 1.5 cm seams; more at the center back for let-outs. - Don’t trim allowances until after the fitting. - Vary seam allowances to control bulk.

- Adjust the sleeve pitch to match his forward shoulders. - Incorrect pitch causes diagonal drag lines. - We’ll recut the sleeve head to fix the pitch.

- Add a ticket pocket for a British look. - The ticket pocket should align with the main flap. - We’ll angle the ticket pocket slightly for style.

- We’ll cut a toile to test the pattern before cloth. - The muslin showed we need more back balance. - After toile approval, we’ll cut the final fabric.

- Cut the under collar on the bias for roll. - Use melton under collar for durability. - Shrink and stretch the under collar while pressing to shape.

- Double vents give better movement and seat coverage. - A single vent is classic American style. - Ventless backs are common on tuxedo jackets.

- We’ll take in the waist for stronger suppression. - Too much suppression can cause pulling at the button. - Add suppression while maintaining chest drape.