Embroidery Services Industry Terminology

Appliqué

A technique where a piece of fabric is stitched onto the garment and edged (often with a satin or zigzag stitch) to cover large areas, add texture, or reduce stitch count and run time.

Let's switch the oversized back logo to appliqué to lower the stitch count; The digitizer set a placement stitch, tack-down, and satin border for the twill appliqué; We used heat-seal twill for the jersey numbers and finished the edge with a satin stitch

Approval Workflow

The structured process of obtaining customer sign-off on mockups, digitized files, sew-out samples, and other specifications before production begins.

The order is on hold in the approval workflow until the client signs off on the sew-out; Move this job from art approval to digitizing approval; We can't schedule production without a PO and proof approval

Art Proof (Mockup)

A visual rendering that shows placement, size, thread colors, and other details of the embroidery on the garment. It is not a sew-out, but a preview for customer approval.

Please approve the art proof showing left-chest placement at 3.5 in wide; The mockup reflects Pantone thread matches for each colorway; The proof notes cap center-out stitching and color stops

Cap Frame

A specialized hoop and driver system for embroidering caps that stabilizes curved surfaces and provides a reduced sewing field compared with flat hoops.

Use the cap frame and center-out pathing to reduce distortion on structured hats; Our cap driver limits the embroidery field height to about 2.25 in; Schedule a slower SPM for foam puff on the cap frame

COGS (Cost of Goods Sold)

All direct costs attributable to producing the embroidered item, such as garments, stabilizers, thread, digitizing, and direct labor.

Our COGS includes blanks, backing, thread, digitizing, and labor; To improve margin we must reduce COGS per thousand stitches; Reconcile COGS against the vendor invoices and time sheets

Color Stop

A machine command embedded in the stitch file that pauses the machine for a thread color change or a manual step like placing appliqué or puff foam.

Insert a color stop for each thread change in the DST; Add a stop before the appliqué tack-down so the operator can place the twill; The machine paused at the programmed color stop to switch to metallic thread

Density (Stitch Density)

The spacing between stitches (often measured in mm per row). Density affects coverage, texture, hand feel, run time, and risks like puckering or thread breaks.

Reduce the fill density from 0.35 mm to 0.45 mm to prevent puckering; Increase satin density on that small text for better coverage; Low-pile fleece needs a slightly lower density plus a knockdown

Digitizing

The process of converting artwork into machine-readable stitch data, setting stitch types, pathing, density, underlay, and compensations to achieve quality embroidery.

We’ll digitize the vector logo with proper underlay and pull compensation; The pathing was optimized to minimize jump stitches; The client paid a one-time digitizing fee based on complexity

DST File

A widely used Tajima stitch file format for industrial embroidery machines. It encodes stitches and commands like trims and stops, but not native color data.

The Tajima DST doesn't store thread colors, so provide a color chart; Export the final stitch file as DST for the shop’s multi-head; The DST includes programmed color stops for appliqué placement

Embroidery Field (Sewing Field)

The maximum area a design can be stitched within a given hoop or frame, determined by the hoop size and machine constraints.

The 12 cm hoop limits the embroidery field to about 4.3 in diameter; The cap frame field height is smaller than the flat hoop; Resize the design to fit the hoop’s sewing field

Fill Stitch (Tatami)

A back-and-forth stitching pattern used to cover larger solid areas. It is versatile, distributes tension well, and can be angled or patterned for texture.

Use a tatami fill with a 45-degree angle for that solid area; Lighten the fill density to avoid stiff hand on polos; Add a zigzag underlay beneath the fill for stability

Finishing

Post-embroidery steps such as trimming threads, removing stabilizer, steaming, folding, bagging, tagging, and preparing items for shipment or retail.

After sewing, we trim jumps, steam out hoop marks, and polybag; Add size stickers and barcode labels during finishing; Include tearaway removal in the finishing SOP

Gross Margin

Revenue minus COGS, expressed in dollars or percentage, used to evaluate profitability of orders, products, or customers.

We target a 55% gross margin on left-chest polos; Raising price per thousand stitches improves margin on dense designs; Audit jobs with low margins to find cost leaks

Hoop

A frame used with stabilizer to secure the garment for embroidery. Proper hooping prevents shifting, distortion, and puckering.

Use the 5x7 hoop to center the logo on the tote; Hoop with cutaway backing for stretchy garments; The hoop slipped, causing registration issues

Hoop Burn

Visible ring or marks left on a garment from hoop pressure or friction. Prevented by proper technique, protective materials, and appropriate tension.

Reduce hoop burn on suede by using protective film; Steam out hoop marks after trimming; Float delicate fabrics to avoid hoop burn

Incoming Inspection

Quality and quantity checks performed when garments and materials arrive, ensuring correct items and identifying defects before production.

Count-in and inspect blanks for defects before staging; Verify sizes and colorways match the PO during receiving; Reject mis-dyed items during incoming inspection

Jump Stitch

A non-sewing movement between stitch points. Excessive jumps can increase trimming time and leave visible thread unless auto-trim is used.

The digitizer minimized jump stitches between letters; Enable auto-trim after long jumps on hats; We trimmed a few uncut jumps during finishing

Kitting

Assembling multiple items into sets per order or per recipient, often combined with labeling, bagging, and insertion of collateral for fulfillment.

Kit each employee pack with a hat, polo, and jacket; Include size-run stickers in the kitting step; Kitting and polybagging are billed as value-add services

Knockdown Stitch

A light, often low-density fill used under a design to flatten high nap fabrics (like fleece or terry) so the top stitches sit cleanly.

Add a knockdown underlay on terry towels for crisp lettering; Use a low-density knockdown box behind the script; The fleece looks cleaner with a knockdown underlay

Lead Time

The time from order readiness (approvals and materials on hand) to shipment. Managed via scheduling, capacity, and priorities.

Standard lead time is 7 business days after approval; A rush fee applies for 48-hour lead time; Lead time starts when PO, goods, and approvals are all in

Left-Chest Placement

A common logo location on shirts. Standards specify size and distance from reference points (like the placket or shoulder) for consistent placement.

Standard left-chest width is 3.5 to 4 in; Measure 7 to 9 cm from the placket for consistency; The proof shows left-chest placement centered to the pocket

Markup

The amount added to cost to arrive at the selling price. Distinct from margin, which is the percentage of price that is profit over COGS.

We use a 2.2x markup on blanks before decoration; Markup differs from margin—40% margin is not 40% markup; Add markup to cover overhead before run charges

MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity)

The smallest quantity a shop will accept for an order, often set to maintain efficiency, pricing integrity, and machine utilization.

Our MOQ for caps is 24 pieces; Below MOQ we add a small-order fee; MOQ may vary by stitch count or technique

Monogram

Personalized initials, typically small satin or running stitches, with conventions for letter order and font styles.

Use 60 wt thread for tiny serif monograms; Follow the traditional first-last-middle initial order for ladies; Offer 3-letter monograms with classic satin columns

Net 30

A common payment term indicating the invoice is due 30 days after the invoice date.

Terms are net 30 for established B2B clients; Late fees apply after net 30; Prepay is required for new accounts without net terms

Needle Size and Point

Specifications describing needle diameter and tip type (e.g., ballpoint vs. sharp). Choice affects penetration, fabric damage, and stitch quality.

Use 75/11 ballpoint for knits and 80/12 sharp for twill; Small text may need 65/9 with 60 wt thread; Switch to SES point to reduce snags on performance wear

Overrun/Underrun Allowance

A tolerance range for shipping slightly more or fewer units than ordered, typically to allow for defects or spoilage in production.

Allow a 2% over/under on cap orders due to spoilage; The client approved up to 5% overrun on patches; Invoice reflects actual shipped quantity within the allowance

Pantone Matching

The process of selecting thread colors that best approximate Pantone (PMS) references using manufacturer thread charts.

We matched PMS 186 C using Madeira 1147; Provide Pantone references so we can pull the closest thread color; Metallic threads do not perfectly match Pantone inks

PES File

A stitch file format commonly used by Brother and Baby Lock machines that includes color information along with stitch data.

Send the Brother machine the PES version of the logo; The PES file carries suggested colors unlike DST; We exported both PES and DST for compatibility

PO (Purchase Order)

A formal document from the buyer authorizing the order, detailing items, quantities, pricing, and terms used to control and track production.

We can't start without a signed PO and deposit; Reference the client’s PO on all cartons; The PO lists sizes, colors, locations, and run charges

Pull Compensation

Digitizing adjustment that widens stitches to offset fabric pull-in so the sewn shape matches the intended artwork.

Add 0.2 mm pull comp to satin columns on pique; Increase compensation on vertical elements that narrow when sewn; The O-shaped border needs more pull comp

Push Compensation

Digitizing adjustment to counter the tendency of stitches to push fabric in the direction of sewing, which can elongate shapes.

Shorten satin ends to counter push on caps; The circle pushes into an oval—add push comp on the axis; Reduce push by sequencing center-out on structured hats

Puckering

Ripples or wrinkles around embroidered areas caused by excessive density, poor stabilization, tension issues, or fabric characteristics.

Switch to cutaway and reduce density to eliminate puckering; Lower top tension and use a larger needle on this nylon; Pre-shrink and hoop tighter to prevent ripples

QA/QC

Quality Assurance and Quality Control. QA is the system of processes to prevent defects; QC is the inspection to detect and correct defects.

QC failed due to stray trims and off-size logo; QA requires a gold-standard sew-out for operators; Use AQL sampling for large runs

Quote

A pricing proposal stating unit costs, setup fees, timelines, and terms based on specifications like stitch count, placements, and quantities.

The quote includes tiered pricing by stitch count; Add a rush fee and digitizing to the quote; Quote stipulates client-provided goods are at owner’s risk

Registration

The alignment of all elements and colors in a design. Poor registration leads to overlaps, gaps, or misaligned details.

We observed gapping between colors—registration is off; Use underlay and proper hooping to improve registration; Cap logos run center-out to maintain registration

Run Charge

The per-piece or per-thousand-stitch fee for sewing the design, separate from setup or digitizing fees.

Pricing is 1.20 per 1,000 stitches run charge; Add a run charge for the second location; Dense patches incur a higher run charge

Running Stitch

A basic stitch type forming a continuous line, used for outlines, details, travel, and underlay. Variants include single, double, and triple-bean.

Use a run stitch for fine outlines and detail; A triple-bean run improves visibility on denim; Run stitch underlay stabilizes the satin column

Satin Stitch

Parallel stitches spanning back and forth to create smooth columns, ideal for borders and lettering. Width affects sheen and stability.

Satin the appliqué edge at 3.5 mm width; Switch tiny text to 60 wt thread and narrow satin; Avoid wide satins on caps to reduce push

SKU

Stock Keeping Unit. A unique identifier for inventory items such as garments, sizes, colors, or even consumables used in production.

Reserve SKUs for blanks before scheduling; The PO lists style SKUs by colorway; Track thread and stabilizer by internal SKUs

Solvy (Water-Soluble Topping)

A thin film placed on top of high-nap fabrics to prevent stitches from sinking. It dissolves in water or with steam/heat for removal.

Use Solvy topping on towels to keep stitches from sinking; Remove topping with a steamer after sewing; For tiny text, Solvy improves edge definition

Stitch Count

The total number of stitches in a design, driving runtime, pricing, and needle/thread wear.

Estimate the stitch count to set run charges; Reducing fill density lowers stitch count and time; The cap logo runs at 9,500 stitches

Tension

The force applied to thread by the machine’s tension system. Proper balance prevents thread breaks, looping, and poor coverage.

Balance top and bobbin tension to avoid loops; Adjust tension when switching to metallic thread; The bobbin tension tester reads 25 grams—too tight

Thread Weight (40 wt)

A measure of thread thickness. Lower numbers are thicker. 40 wt is the industry standard; 60 wt suits small lettering; 30 wt provides bolder coverage.

Standard polyester 40 wt for most logos; Use 60 wt for micro text and fine detail; 30 wt fills faster but looks heavier

Three-Dimensional Puff (3D Puff)

A raised embroidery technique using foam under satin stitches to create dimensional effects, commonly on structured caps.

Add a color stop to place foam under the satin; Reduce density and widen satins for puff on caps; Use perforation stitches to cut the foam cleanly

Tie-in/Tie-off

Short locking stitches placed at the start and end of segments to secure threads and prevent unraveling.

Add tie-ins before satins to prevent unraveling; The machine’s auto tie-off failed, causing loose ends; Increase tie-off length on slippery thread

Underlay Stitches

Foundational stitches beneath top stitches that stabilize fabric, add lift, and improve coverage. Common types include center-run, edge-walk, and zigzag.

Center-run underlay stabilizes small text; Use edge-walk plus zigzag underlay below a wide satin; Increase underlay on stretchy performance fabric

Vector Art

Resolution-independent artwork composed of paths. Preferred source for digitizing because it provides clean edges and scalable shapes.

Provide vector artwork (AI, EPS, SVG) for clean digitizing; We simplified nodes in the vector before digitizing; Convert text to outlines in the vector file

Wholesale Pricing

Discounted pricing offered to decorators and resellers based on volume or account status, used to maintain margins in B2B sales.

Distributors offer us wholesale pricing on blanks; Tiered wholesale rates depend on annual volume; We pass through wholesale costs plus markup

Work Order

An internal document detailing all production instructions, approvals, materials, and scheduling for a specific job.

The work order lists hoop size, thread sequence, and placements; Attach the approved proof to the work order; QC signs off on the work order before packing